HERE ARE SOME RESOURCES
HOW TO ADD PRIMARY TRADELINES TO YOUR CREDIT REPORT
One of the best ways to improve your credit report is to offset negative items by injecting positive accounts. Oftentimes members are unable to do this easily because their credit score is so low that getting credit approvals is extremely hard. Many people have either given up, or are so relentless that they keep trying and making their credit worse by racking up credit inquiries for things they are not getting approved for.
However, what many people do not know is that their "credit card building" companies exist for the sole purpose of helping people to rebuild their credit through certain very low cost revolving credit lines that are much easier to get approved for.
Obviously it's not going to be the 30k credit limit you want but with building credit, you cannot get adult credit limits with toddler credit history. That is why you must take steps to build your credit TODAY so that in the future, you have a running shot at getting a high limit credit card. The info below will help you do exactly that.
A primary tradeline is an account that shows on your credit report as YOUR account, versus being an authorized user's account. It's important to have a good mix of accounts on your credit report, including primary tradelines AND authorized user tradelines.
Ideally you want to have at LEAST 3+ OPEN, POSITIVE accounts on your credit report, between primary tradelines and seasoned authorized user tradelines.
Primary tradelines go through a much more rigorous validation process than authorized user tradelines. There are several legitimate companies that exist for the sole purpose of reporting primary tradelines to your credit report for credit building. Their fees are minimal in exchange for the power of what they are really doing to show credit stability on your credit report.
Below are my favorite legitimate primary tradeline options that will help BOOST YOUR CREDIT REPORT and build a solid foundation for your credit.
👉 I recommend to try and get at least the TOP 3 LISTED BELOW ASAP.
1. Online Jewelry Club Card
✅ Get a $5,000 unsecured primary tradeline on your credit report. This will be your account, in your name, and you are the primary account holder.
✅ The purpose is to boost your credit score and help build a solid foundation for your credit.
✅ The injection of an unsecured (meaning no collateral) $5,000 credit limit paired with super low utilization is bound to make your credit report stronger.
✅ Easy approval even if you have bad credit.
✅ Approvals are immediate.
HOW IT WORKS:
👉 You place an order for at least $100 for one jewelry item from their website, and they will ship it to you. Select a low cost item of only $100 to keep your cost down. You will be required to pay for anything you order so don't defeat the purpose by buying what you don't need. Their website looks outdated but I promise this is not a sketch, it's legit. I have this card.
👉 Once you get approved which is a quick process right on your order form, they will begin processing you for a $5,000 line of credit which will report on your credit. Read their 'how it works' page for additional info.
👉 Ensure you make the payments because they are reporting the usage and re-payment history.
👉 You must be at least 18 years old and a U.S. Citizen.
👉 Household income must reflect $1,400
Once this tradeline reflects on your credit report, for many people, the injection of the perfect positive account with $5,000 credit limit and super low utilization has a powerful impact spanning months into the future given the small payments are made on time.
2. Chime Credit Card Builder
✅ This is a secured credit card in your name used for the sole purpose of helping you build your credit score.
✅ No minimum credit score required so there is 100% hope for you!
✅ The credit limit is low, but you have to start somewhere in order to establish and build your credit back up.
✅ The card reports to all three credit bureaus 6 times a month.
✅ They will allow you the option of getting two credit cards which is double the credit building opportunity.
3. Self Lender
✅ This one is way different from the others, but still a great choice especially for account diversification.
✅ This is a CD (certificate of deposit) that reports to ALL THREE CREDIT BUREAUS, and you get the money back after it matures in one year.
✅ There is a small origination fee (around $9 - $12) then small monthly payments after that based on how much you want the CD to report as.
✅ Each payment is reported to the 3 credit bureaus (don't screw this up!). At the end of the term, you've paid off the loan and you can get the money back + interest - hence saving money while boosting your credit.
✅ NEW AND PAID TRADELINE ALERT = POTENTIAL CREDIT SCORE INCREASE
More info on how it works
>>HERE<<
Tradeline Cheat Sheet!
Below you will find my Tradeline Cheat Sheet FAQ
“What is a Tradeline? How Does it Work?”
A tradeline is a credit line/account that is on your credit report. For example, any of your credit cards are considered tradelines on your credit report. Your car note is a tradeline. Your mortgage is a tradeline. A student loan reporting to your credit report is a tradeline.
The type of tradelines that you can buy from vendors or get added onto from a friend or family member are Authorized User tradelines and should have perfect payment history and low utilization (under 20%). They do this by adding you as an authorized user to a tradeline, allowing you to “piggyback” off of the account in good standing.
This is possible because creditors will provide credit bureaus the entire account history on any given tradeline for an authorized user. Your credit report digests this newly added credit and can recalculate your score and credit worthiness.
The type of tradelines that you can buy from vendors or get added onto from a friend or family member are Authorized User tradelines and should have perfect payment history and low utilization (under 20%). They do this by adding you as an authorized user to a tradeline, allowing you to “piggyback” off of the account in good standing.
This is possible because creditors will provide credit bureaus the entire account history on any given tradeline for an authorized user. Your credit report digests this newly added credit and can recalculate your score and credit worthiness.
Tips For Selecting The Best Tradelines:
Higher limits and older aged tradelines correlate to bigger credit score increases.
More older accounts make your file more solid.
If you have nothing on your credit file, you must select something at least 2 years old to generate a credit score and avoid a thin file error.
The fewer addresses you have on your credit report, the better.
Any tradeline you ever purchase, you want to make sure it's utilization is under 25% generally and it has a perfect payment history.
If you have negative items on your credit report, this can offset the boost that you could get. You may need to do credit repair/ or hire a professional.
“How Long Does It Take For Tradelines to Report?”
Typically tradelines report 15 days AFTER the statement date given you placed your order at least 3 DAYS BEFORE the statement date.( Ask the tradeline provider for the statement date of the card you want added to your credit report ).
“Should You Remove Fraud Alerts Before Adding Tradelines?”
Yes. Fraud alerts, credit freezes and other types of locks, block new information from showing up on your report. If you don’t remove the fraud alerts/locks then the tradeline will not post properly. It's your responsibility to call each credit bureau and remove the fraud alert. It is a simple phone call to each bureau to remove it. You can always add the fraud alert back as soon as the tradeline reports if you wish.
Here You Can Add Authorized User Tradelines
Some of the most reliable & affordable tradelines on the market.
CLICK HERE TO LEARN ABOUT AND ADD TRADELINES
Master Secret Lenders List... BOOM!
Here is how to BEST use this document!
This was created to be an all-in-one tool that you could use to get your plan of attack together, line up one day and then Bam apply for 3-5 tradelines all at once. Knowing what bureaus different tradelines pull your report from will allow you to get the most out of your game day strategy.
Based on what you get back and your own personal data, you can add your notes to this and start to create your own tracker based on what you are experiencing with the bureaus and approval/denial or just wait for updates, which I will do on a regular basis.
If there is a known credit score that is required for said institution, it will be in ( ) like this (640+), any other requirements that we know of will be mentioned as well. If there is no notes or credit score requirement next to an institution then we don’t have any information on that currently.
Also worth noting the obvious, that the information in this document may possibly NOT be up to date when you are reading it and using it. Always double check.
Make Your Own 'CREDIT GAME DAY'
After you are done removing any inquiries, derogatories etc, you will want to schedule out a day where you are going to blitz all of these applications all at the same time. That means you will line up 3-5 credit card applications, all open in separate tabs Example. Open up Chrome, Explorer and Edge at once before submitting, you wait and fill out the next one, until you are done with all 3-5 applications, then you will submit one after another in succession, meaning all forms are filled, then boom-submit, submit, submit all the way through.
That way all of the inquiries will hit all at once and that will be your best chance of getting approval on the tradelines. DO NOT do these one at a time, search around, wait a few days in between, blah blah. That isn’t the way you do this, and that's not what this whole document was created for.
After you are done removing any inquiries, derogatories etc, you will want to schedule out a day where you are going to blitz all of these applications all at the same time. That means you will line up 3-5 credit card applications, all open in separate tabs Example. Open up Chrome, Explorer and Edge at once before submitting, you wait and fill out the next one, until you are done with all 3-5 applications, then you will submit one after another in succession, meaning all forms are filled, then boom-submit, submit, submit all the way through.
That way all of the inquiries will hit all at once and that will be your best chance of getting approval on the tradelines. DO NOT do these one at a time, search around, wait a few days in between, blah blah. That isn’t the way you do this, and that's not what this whole document was created for.
DISCLAIMER: This is for education purposes only and we CAN NOT guarantee any approvals from the credit card applications.
Finding Pre-Qualified Offers The easiest way to find pre-qualified offers is to go to a bank website and look at the menu options under credit cards and see if they have an easy link to spot right there for checking your pre-qualified offers.
You can also check if you are using Credit Karma or even Experian paid, has offers/recommendations which are usually pre-qual offers. Usually these offers ask for full name, address, DOB and last 4 of social. Remember, going through these offers DOES NOT guarantee you will get approved. Be sure to check the bank in our lists to see what bureaus it pulls from.
You can also check if you are using Credit Karma or even Experian paid, has offers/recommendations which are usually pre-qual offers. Usually these offers ask for full name, address, DOB and last 4 of social. Remember, going through these offers DOES NOT guarantee you will get approved. Be sure to check the bank in our lists to see what bureaus it pulls from.
Capital One: (even business cards require personal guarantor and all 3 bureau hard hit) https://www.capitalone.com/credit-cards/prequalify/
Bank Of America: https://secure.bankofamerica.com/secure-offers/public/customizedOffers Chase Bank: https://www.chase.com/prequalified
American Express (hardest cards to get): https://www.americanexpress.com/us/credit-cards/check-for-offers/
CitiBank: https://www.citicards.com/cards/credit/application/flow.action?isInvit ation=N&OC=CC-CITI-3D5&JFP_TOKEN=DB8LPDXV
Chase makes it easier to get credit cards for personal or business if you already have a checking account with them. Wells Fargo doesn’t even offer credit cards to non-customers, so you would need an account to even move forward.
Personal loan and debt consolidation sites like Prosper and Lending Club do also allow pre-qualifications, the thing I would suggest here is if you get denied by them, DO NOT agree to the suggested site they give you, which will do another pre-qual. Most people don’t know this, those are sub-prime providers, aka high interest rates and horrible terms. It's not even worth it. Store cards from Synchrony don’t offer any kind of pre-qual but Comenity bank store cards sometimes do.
Chase makes it easier to get credit cards for personal or business if you already have a checking account with them. Wells Fargo doesn’t even offer credit cards to non-customers, so you would need an account to even move forward.
Personal loan and debt consolidation sites like Prosper and Lending Club do also allow pre-qualifications, the thing I would suggest here is if you get denied by them, DO NOT agree to the suggested site they give you, which will do another pre-qual. Most people don’t know this, those are sub-prime providers, aka high interest rates and horrible terms. It's not even worth it. Store cards from Synchrony don’t offer any kind of pre-qual but Comenity bank store cards sometimes do.
Secured Credit Cards
Open Sky CC ○ Min deposit $200 ○ N0 CREDIT SCORE APPROVAL ○ Refundable deposit $200-$3,000 ○ APR of 19% ○ Annual fee $35 ○ Reports to the 3 leading credit bureaus
Green Dot Primor Secured Card ○ Min deposit $200 ○ Deposit between $200-$3,000 ○ NO CREDIT SCORE APPROVAL ○ Annual fee $39 ○ APR of 14% ○ Reports to the 3 leading credit bureaus
Discover IT Secured Credit Card ○ Cash back up to 2% on grocery & Gas ○ Only cash back SCC on the market right now ○ Graduates in as little as 8 months ○ No annual fee ○ Min deposit $200 ○ Reports to the 3 leading credit bureaus ○ Should have 640 credit score on Experian (Hard inquiry)
Capital One Secured ○ No annual fee ○ APR of 26.99% ○ Refundable deposit ○ Make first 5 monthly payments on time, get credit increase ○ Pick your own monthly due date ○ $49, $99 or $200 min deposit (depends on what you get approved for) ○ Can have low 500s and still get approved (Hard inquiry all 3)
AMEX - Experian Amex – Experian (no derogs, no BKs, 720+) Business cards only report to consumer credit bureaus when you default Delta Skymiles Gold Amex – Experian (660+ $5,000)
American Express Gold Card-personal ○ Earn 35,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $4,000 on eligible purchases with your new card within the first 3 months. ○ Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points at restaurants worldwide. ○ Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points at US supermarkets (on up to $25,000 per year in purchases, then 1X). ○ Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points on flights booked directly with airlines or on amextravel.com. ○ $100 Airline Fee Credit: up to $100 in statement credits per year for incidental fees at one selected airline. ○ Annual Fee: $250
American Express Cash Magnet Card-personal ○ Earn a $150 statement credit after you spend $1,000 on the card within your first 3 months. ○ Unlimited 1.5% Cash Back, received in the form of Reward Dollars that can be redeemed for statement credits, gift cards, and merchandise ○ Annual Fee: $0
Blue Cash Everyday-personal ○ Earn a $150 statement credit after you spend $1,000 in purchases on your new Card within the first 3 months. ○ 3% cash-back at U.S. supermarkets (on up to $6,000 per year in purchases, then 1%). ○ Earn 2% cash-back at U.S. gas stations and select U.S. department stores. Earn 1% back on all other purchases. ○ Annual fee: $0
The Blue Business Plus Card-business (690+) ○ 2x points on business purchase up to $50,000 annually (than 1x) ○ No annual fee ○ The $50,000 spending cap on double points reduces this card's value for businesses with high operating expenses.
Business Platinum Card-business (690+) ○ Welcome Offer: Earn up to 75,000 Membership Rewards® Points. ○ Earn 50,000 Membership Rewards® points after you spend $10,000 and an extra 25,000 points after you spend an additional $10,000 all on qualifying purchases within your first 3 months of Card Membership. ○ Get 5X Membership Rewards® points on flights and prepaid hotels on amextravel.com. ○ Access more than 1,200 airport lounges across 130 countries and counting, including the amazing Centurion® lounges. ○ $200 Airline Fee Credit. ○ Annual Fee: $595 ○ The $595 annual fee is very steep. Keep in mind, though, that the fee is a deductible business expense.
American Express Blue Business Cash Card (690+) ○ Earn 2% cash back on all eligible purchases on up to $50,000 per calendar year ○ Cash back automatically applied as a monthly statement - good for re-investing back into the business ○ 0.0% intro APR on purchases and balance transfers for 12 months, then a variable rate, 14.74%, 17.74%, or 20.74% ○ Annual Fee: $0 ○ The $50,000 cap on 2% cash back makes this card a poor fit for businesses with high expenses
The Plum Card (690+) ○ $0 intro offer for 12 months, then $250 per year ○ Paying early pays off: Get a 1.5% discount when you pay early, with no cap on what you can earn back. ○ With a hefty annual fee after the first year, this card is designed for businesses that spend big. And while it offers flexible terms, it's still a charge card, meaning your balance will be due in full — you can't spread out the cost of a purchase over several months. Bank of America – Equifax/Transunion
BOA- Business Advantage Travel Rewards World (720+) ○ $0 annual fee ○ 1.5x on every dollar you spend ○ Intro Offer: Earn 25,000 bonus points when you make at least $1,000 in net purchases within 60 days of your account opening which can be redeemed for a $250 statement credit towards travel purchases 0% Business Card- Transunion (650+) (approved for $9k business line with 722 FICO, 6 inquiries)
BMW Financial Services – Experian ● BMW Financial Services – Experian (695+ $50,000 Lease) Capital One Auto Finance – Experian/Equifax
Capital One Auto Finance – Experian (650+ $30,000 with Proof of Income)
Capital One Bank Credit Cards – Equifax/Transunion
Capital One Venture – Experian/Transunion (650+ $5,000)
Capital One Venture – Experian (680+ $20,000 with 2 AU’s over $10,000 each) ○ Earn 20,000 mile sign up bonus (worth $200) once you spend $1,000 on purchases within 3 months from account opening. ○ 0% Intro APR on purchases for 12 months; 13.74% - 23.74% variable APR after that ○ Earn 10x miles on hotels booked and paid through hotels.com/venture (can be transferred to 12 airline partners) ○ Earn 1.25X Miles on every purchase ○ Annual Fee: $0 Credit Rebuilding Cards
Capital One Venture – Experian (680+ $20,000 with 2 AU’s over $10,000 each) ○ Earn 20,000 mile sign up bonus (worth $200) once you spend $1,000 on purchases within 3 months from account opening. ○ 0% Intro APR on purchases for 12 months; 13.74% - 23.74% variable APR after that ○ Earn 10x miles on hotels booked and paid through hotels.com/venture (can be transferred to 12 airline partners) ○ Earn 1.25X Miles on every purchase ○ Annual Fee: $0 Credit Rebuilding Cards
Capital One Quick Silver – Experian (580+ $300) ○ Earn 1.5% cash back on every purchase, every day ○ Get access to a higher credit line after making your first 5 monthly payments on time ○ Great card for those with no credit history or a low credit score ○ Annual Fee: $39
Capital One Platinum- Experian (580+ $300) ○ Get access to a higher credit line after making your first 5 monthly payments on time ○ Excellent card for those with no credit history or a low credit score ○ Annual Fee: $0
Business Cards
These business cards are almost a trick, they report EVERY MONTH to your consumer credit report, meaning if you had a 0% interest card with $30k limit and maxed that out for year end spending, that utilization would show on your personal credit report and negatively affect you. Heard of drops as much as 150 points, even if you have over 800 score.
These business cards are almost a trick, they report EVERY MONTH to your consumer credit report, meaning if you had a 0% interest card with $30k limit and maxed that out for year end spending, that utilization would show on your personal credit report and negatively affect you. Heard of drops as much as 150 points, even if you have over 800 score.
Capital One Spark Classic (580+) ○ 1.0% cash-back on every purchase ○ $0 annual fee ○ The ongoing APR is 24.49% Variable APR, which is relatively high, so it’s not a good card for carrying debt
Spark cash select (670+) ○ 1.5% cash-back on every purchase ○ $0 annual fee
Spark cash (670+) ○ 2% cash-back on every purchase ○ $95 annual fee waived the 1st year ○ After the first year, you’ll need to put $4,750 on the card annually to break even.
Spark Miles (670+) ○ 2 miles per dollar spent on every purchase ○ $95 annual fee waived the 1st year ○ After the first year, you'd have to spend at least $4,750 a year on the card before the rewards would outweigh the cost.
Spark Miles select (670+) ○ 1.5 miles per dollar spent ○ $0 annual fee
Chase Bank – Experian & Equifax Chase uses the 5/24 rule, meaning its almost impossible to get approved for a new credit card if you have 5 inquires on your report in last 24 months
Chase – Experian (750+ $10,000)
Chase Amazon – Experian (750+ $7,000)
Chase Freedom – Experian (750+ $7,000) ○ Earn $150 bonus after you spend $500 on purchases in your first 3 months. Unlimited 1.5% cash back on all purchases. ○ 0% Intro APR for 15 months from account opening on purchases & balance transfers, then a variable APR of 16.49% - 25.24%. ○ 3% intro balance transfer fee when you transfer a balance during the first 60 days with a minimum of $5. ○ Annual Fee: $0
Chase Ink Bold – Experian (720+ $15,000)
Chase Sapphire Preferred – Experian (720+ $18,000)
Chase Southwest Plus – Experian (750+ $3,500)
Chase Amazon Rewards – Experian (750+ $7,000)
Chase United Explorer – Experian (720+ $19,500) Chase Business Cards These will NOT report to consumer credit bureaus unless you default/are seriously delinquent
Chase Ink Business Preferred (690+) ○ Earn 80,000 bonus points after you spend $5,000 on purchases in the first 3 months ○ That's $1,000 toward travel when you redeem through
Chase Ultimate Rewards® ○ Points are worth 25% more when you redeem for travel through Chase Ultimate Rewards® ○ Earn 3 points per $1 on the first $150,000 spent in combined purchases in the following categories each account anniversary year: Travel, Shipping purchases, Internet, cable and phone services, Advertising purchases with social media sites and search engines. ○ Annual Fee: $95 ○ After the first year, you’d have to spend at least $2,534 before the rewards make up for the annual fee.
Chase Ultimate Rewards® ○ Points are worth 25% more when you redeem for travel through Chase Ultimate Rewards® ○ Earn 3 points per $1 on the first $150,000 spent in combined purchases in the following categories each account anniversary year: Travel, Shipping purchases, Internet, cable and phone services, Advertising purchases with social media sites and search engines. ○ Annual Fee: $95 ○ After the first year, you’d have to spend at least $2,534 before the rewards make up for the annual fee.
Ink Business Cash ○ Earn $500 bonus cash-back ○ Earn 5% cash back on the first $25,000 spent in combined purchases at office supply stores and on the internet, cable and phone services ○ Earn 2% cash back on the first $25,000 (combined) spent at gas stations and restaurants each year ○ 0% introductory APR for 12 months on purchases, then a variable APR of 14.74% - 20.74% ○ $0 Annual Fee
Ink Business Unlimited ○ $500 bonus cash back after you spend $3,000 on purchases in the first 3 months after account opening. ○ Earn unlimited 1.5% Cash Back rewards on every purchase made for your business. ○ 0% intro APR for 12 months from account opening on purchases and balance transfers. After that, 14.74% - 20.74% variable APR. ○ Annual Fee: $0
United MilagePlus Business ○ Earn 50,000 miles after spending $1,000 in the first 3 months ○ 2 miles/$1 for all purchases with United Airlines, restaurants, gas stations, office supply stores ○ 2 one-time lounge passes annually ○ Free checked bag for cardholder and companion ○ $95 Annual fee is waived for the first year.
Southwest Rapid Rewards Performance Business ○ 70,000 Southwest miles after spending $5,000 in the first 3 months after card approval ○ 3 miles/dollar spent on Southwest Airlines, 2 miles/dollar on social media, search engines, internet, cable, and phone. 1 mile/dollar on all other purchases ○ 9,000 Southwest miles at card renewal
CitiBank
Citibank Best Buy - Equifax
Citi American Airlines Platinum – Experian (720+ $6,500)
Citi Double Cash / Citi Thank You Premier – Experian (720+ $6,800)
CitiBank Costco Card ○ 4% cash-back at gas stations worldwide, including Costco (up to $7,000 in purchases/year) ○ 3% cash-back on travel purchases and at restaurants ○ 2% cash-back at Costco and Costco.com ○ 1% cash-back on all other purchases ○ No annual fee for Costco members ○ No foreign transaction fees ○ Costco membership is required & no welcome bonus ○ Penalty APR for late payments is 29.99% (variable)
Citi Diamond Preferred Business- Experian (720)
Citibusiness AAdvantage Platinum Select World ○ Generous welcome bonus of AAdvantage redeemable miles ○ Earn 2 miles per dollar spent on American Airlines, telecommunications, satellite and cable providers, car rentals, and at gas stations ○ Preferred boarding on
American Airlines flights ○ A free checked bag for the cardholder and up to 4 traveling companions ○ 25% statement credit for in-flight food, beverage, and Wi-Fi purchases ○ Annual fee waived the first year ○ No Foreign Transaction fees
American Airlines flights ○ A free checked bag for the cardholder and up to 4 traveling companions ○ 25% statement credit for in-flight food, beverage, and Wi-Fi purchases ○ Annual fee waived the first year ○ No Foreign Transaction fees
Barclaycard Apple Rewards – Experian (720+ $3,500)
BBVA - Experian (650+ $2,000-$50,000) ○ Business credit cards don’t report to bureaus- this is odd
BBVA Compass secured Business card ○ $500 min deposit ○ Limited states ○ $40 annual fee waived first year ○ Foreign transaction fees ○ Credit limit equals 90% of security deposit ○ Choose one 3 points per dollar earning category and one 2 points per dollar category each quarter.
Discover – Experian (620+ $1,500 - $5,500) Equifax 647 ($750) ○ Discover IT Business Card- (690+) ○ $0 Annual Fee ○ 1.5% cash back ○ Add up to 50 free employee cards ○ Track business expenses, download transactions easily into Quicken, Quickbooks & Excel. ○ INTRO OFFER: Get an unlimited dollar-for-dollar match of all the cash back you earn at the end of your first year, automatically. And no limit to how much we’ll match. So you could turn $350 cash back into $700 with Cashback Match ○ Above $19,000 in spending, for example, you'd do better with a 2% card with a $95 fee than a 1.5% card with no fee.
Brex- Credit card for startups ○ $0 annual fee ○ Credit score doesn’t matter ○ 1x-7x points (7x on rideshare, 4x on travel, 3x on restaurants, 2x on software subscriptions, and 1x on everything else) ○ 75,000 in Brex Rewards points upon signup and waived card fees for life (equal to $750+ value) ○ Your business must have a $100,000 bank balance to apply. This is a charge card, not a credit card, meaning the balance is due in full each billing cycle.
Sample Dispute Letters
Below you will find Sample Dispute Letters with detailed instructions
***IMPORTANT INFO*** For the best results we definitely recommend sending all letters that you are using below via “CERTIFIED MAIL” With a return receipt requested. it is imperative that you have the document time of when it was received.
This part was extremely important because we’re going to need to prove that the collection agencies, credit bureaus and creditors failed to properly investigate and or mark your account as disputed within that 30 day timeframe required by law.
The time starts ticking as soon as they sign for your letter and you will have a receipt of when they sign for it as well.
This part was extremely important because we’re going to need to prove that the collection agencies, credit bureaus and creditors failed to properly investigate and or mark your account as disputed within that 30 day timeframe required by law.
The time starts ticking as soon as they sign for your letter and you will have a receipt of when they sign for it as well.
ON DAY 31 (31 calendar days after they signed for the letter) I’m going to have you print out a new copy of your credit reports and they will be time and date stamped as well. This will provide you with as much proof of whether they actually marked the item “DISPUTED” As required by law. If they do it after that 30 day mark you now have leverage on them that they have violated the FCRA and FDCPA.
PLEASE PAY ATTENTION HERE:
We have made notes and things like” your name here” and other notes so make sure you proofread the letters and see that you’ve made all the necessary edits where your own personal information is required on the letter.
According to the law, the burden of proof is on the credit bureau and or the furniture of the information “NOT YOU” what that means for you is that you’re allowed to challenge any item that you believe is unverifiable or in accurate. However if you do know and concede that an item is 100% yours, there are other ways to go after and remove it instead of claiming it doesn’t belong to you. So in a case like that we can challenge the information based on some of the following potential errors that you may believe or occurring.
- Incorrect information
- Missing information
- Incorrect balance
- Incorrect credit limit
- “Status“ incorrect
- High balance is lower than old balance
- Incorrect high balance
- Late pays after an account was closed
- Account number in accurate (sometimes it would include X’s or Asterix instead of the full number. This is a huge one that will talk about a little later)
- Invalid furnisher
- Account type in accurate
- Date of last activity incorrect(remember the seven year clock starts on the last payment you made and no one is allowed to “re-age” The item to start the clock over. Even paying off a collection does not reset the last payment date.
- Date of last update incorrect
- Date reported in accurate
- Collection account listed with a limit, but a collection cannot have a limit.
- Charge-off listed as “Open” or collection
The sample letter templates below are basically for accounts that you claim are not yours, but you are free to change them to the situation that applies to you the most, using one or more of the above issues.
Lastly, some of the common replies you’re going to get from the letters you send in Step 1 are - the creditor or collection agency may reply with a whole bunch of stuff, you really don’t understand how many times it isn't even legal or true (such as saying they don’t even need to give you proof of anything). Bull crap, these are stall tactics and typically just continue with the next letter.
They say “VERIFIED” or proof and show you an itemized print out of what they claim is your account or billing statement.
MAIL RETURNED UNDELIVERABLE?
If you mailed your letter to the address of the creditor/collector that is listed on your credit report and it comes back returned, that means they are reporting in accurate data because they provide you with a false address to actually reach them on your credit report. From here make a copy of the returned mail and send it to the credit bureau’s as proof and “request removal” immediately.
Step 1 - First Letter
This is the letter that you are going to send to the agency(ies) that reported the incorrect unfair obsolete derogatory info to the credit bureaus.
This is the letter that you are going to send to the agency(ies) that reported the incorrect unfair obsolete derogatory info to the credit bureaus.
Step 1 - 2nd Letter (A)
This is the letter you will send if you receive a letter back from the collection agency/creditor if they tell you your account was verified as accurate.
This is the letter you will send if you receive a letter back from the collection agency/creditor if they tell you your account was verified as accurate.
Step 1 - 2nd Letter (B)
This letter is the one you will send if you *DO NOT* hear back from the collection agency or creditor on the first letter you sent out.
This letter is the one you will send if you *DO NOT* hear back from the collection agency or creditor on the first letter you sent out.
Step 1 - 3rd Letter
This is the letter that you send out to the collection/credit agency when they respond with what they consider “proof” that your original signature and obligation to pay. You cannot send this before day 30 from then. Check your credit report and see if the agency has marked the account as “disputed.” If they have not marked it as disputed in the comment section on your credit report, then send the letter below. However if it is marked as “disputed,” proceed with sending the Step 1 - 4th letter.
This is the letter that you send out to the collection/credit agency when they respond with what they consider “proof” that your original signature and obligation to pay. You cannot send this before day 30 from then. Check your credit report and see if the agency has marked the account as “disputed.” If they have not marked it as disputed in the comment section on your credit report, then send the letter below. However if it is marked as “disputed,” proceed with sending the Step 1 - 4th letter.
Step 1 - 4th Letter
Send this letter if you have not heard back from the creditor or agency OR they continue to say it is verified without sufficient proof. Only use this letter if you have taken action in small claims court. It’s completely up to you if you want to go that route.
You can skip ahead if you want to skip ahead and go to STEP 2 - Letter 1 in lieu of filing small claims lawsuit.
Send this letter if you have not heard back from the creditor or agency OR they continue to say it is verified without sufficient proof. Only use this letter if you have taken action in small claims court. It’s completely up to you if you want to go that route.
You can skip ahead if you want to skip ahead and go to STEP 2 - Letter 1 in lieu of filing small claims lawsuit.
PART 2
Letters To the Credit Bureaus
Here is where we are contacting the credit bureau directly. The focus is on something called “method of verification” we’re going to start by disputing the inaccurate, unverifiable or unfair item as per FCRA section 611 (a) (1)(A)
If you get a response to your challenge/dispute from the credit reporting agencies saying the disputed item was actually “VERIFIED “ Do you have the right to request“ method of verification” under the FCRA, section 611 (a) (6) and (7) The credit reporting agency must give you the method of verification information within 15 days of your request.
This is something they typically cannot do, because they don’t actually speak to anyone in order to get the verification. Remember when we mentioned this before, it’s an automated system through our computer and computers make errors. So a third-party database was likely used to “VERIFY” The disputed item automatically, which is insufficient.
So what we would do then is actually request evidence such as the name, address and telephone number of anyone from the original creditor they’ve contacted, and escalated from there.
So what we would do then is actually request evidence such as the name, address and telephone number of anyone from the original creditor they’ve contacted, and escalated from there.
Tip: if one bureau actually removes an item/ Derogatory and the others don’t, you can send those to the credit bureau’s as evidence that they need to remove the derogatory item in question.
STEP 2 - 1st Letter
I want you to use this as the first letter to dispute or challenge with the credit bureaus directly. We recommend sending these only if you have not had success with step 1 letters to the creditors or if you are trying to dispute a public record.
I want you to use this as the first letter to dispute or challenge with the credit bureaus directly. We recommend sending these only if you have not had success with step 1 letters to the creditors or if you are trying to dispute a public record.
Step 2 - 2nd Letter(A)
This is the letter you send if you receive a letter back saying the account was “verified” as accurate from the credit bureaus.
Step 2 - 2nd Letter (B)
This is the letter to send to the credit bureau that you will send ONLY if you got no response at all back from Step 2, Letter 1.
Step 2 - 3rd Letter
This is the letter to send if you have not heard back from the credit bureau at all or if they keep coming back and saying verified without sufficient proof. This letter is for when you are ready to take legal action. You do have the right to skip ahead to the wacky letter in lieu of legal action if you so choose.
This is the letter to send if you have not heard back from the credit bureau at all or if they keep coming back and saying verified without sufficient proof. This letter is for when you are ready to take legal action. You do have the right to skip ahead to the wacky letter in lieu of legal action if you so choose.
WACKY LETTER
The purpose of this letter is to throw off the e-oscar system and actually have a human potentially review the letter as opposed to a sophisticated computer system. There is no rhyme or reason to this but sometimes it works and sometimes it does not but it is certainly a great strategy to try if you are having issues with the other letters above as this can throw off the system and potentially get a negative removed.
The purpose of this letter is to throw off the e-oscar system and actually have a human potentially review the letter as opposed to a sophisticated computer system. There is no rhyme or reason to this but sometimes it works and sometimes it does not but it is certainly a great strategy to try if you are having issues with the other letters above as this can throw off the system and potentially get a negative removed.